Question Rust removal on Arisakas

[sandsnow]

I got two Arisakas with bad rust. I would like to know what has worked for you if you've had a similar project.
I have used vinegar in rusty motorcycle tanks which worked well. I'm not sure of any cons with guns. I would need a long tank to soak the rifles though.
So far I have just used some oil and toothbrush to uncover markings.
I have used oil and steel wool before but that took the bluing underneath off.
One is a Type 38 Series 27, matching parts, missing dust cover and cleaning rod
The other is a Type 99 Series 6, missing dust cover, cleaning rod and AA wings.
Thanks

 

[joefrank64k]

I gave away two Arisakas that looked a lot like yours. Mine even had mud wasp nests in the barrels, haha!!

The guy who took them cleaned them up nicely. There was a thread on Calguns about it, but we know how useful that is right now, haha!!

I've always used 0000 bronze wool and some oil. Don't scrub hard. Should come off easy enough.

 

[sandsnow]

Bronze wool......I never knew. Thanks for that

 

[bluenoise]

I'm in the process of removing rust from a cast iron fireplace part using electrolysis. It's working very well so far. Supposedly, it's a self regulating process where it stops when the rust is gone without etching or removing good metal. I just need to follow up with a scotch-brite pad or bronze wool.

 

[sjb323]

Those are prime candidates for rust conversion by boiling them in distilled water. There's a bunch of videos on YouTube about it, but by boiling the affected parts, you are converting the ferrous oxide (rust) into ferric oxide (magnetite). The process is known as "rust bluing" or "browning". I've restored more than a few guns using this process and they turn out incredible. Here's an example of a Bannerman conversion Mosin that I restored a few months ago.

Follow Mark Novak. He is a great source of information on this and all things gunsmithing.

 

[joefrank64k]

Amazingly I found the thread from the Calgunner who got my rifles.

Recently I was graciously given two Type 99 Arisaka rifles. The caveat was that they were left out to the elements in a garage for several decades, so there was significant rust on the receiver, barrel, some trigger parts. Both rifles had mud wasp nest/dirt impacted in the barrels and all small holes. After some TLC, several brass brushes and a bottle of oil, I believe I got them to a decent shape. For the stocks, a few coats of boiled linseed oil seemed to do the trick. The monopod and sling are reproduction. Really neat guns with what seems like plenty of history. I never realized how difficult it is to find ammo for these.

Before pics:

https://imgur.com/a/BLTFnhG

After pics:

https://imgur.com/a/p06t5ok

 

[sjb323]

Amazingly I found the thread from the Calgunner who got my rifles.



Before pics:

https://imgur.com/a/BLTFnhG

After pics:

https://imgur.com/a/p06t5ok

I remember that post on calguns, Joefrank. That guy snuck in before I could respond to your thread, but looks like he did a great job bringing them back to life.

 

[sandsnow]

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[joefrank64k]

I remember that post on calguns, Joefrank. That guy snuck in before I could respond to your thread, but looks like he did a great job bringing them back to life.

Haha!! I had lots of interest, but they went to a good home.

The great thing about the giveaway was I found a last ditch Arisaka that I didn’t remember was in my collection. Has all the LD stuff (crude finish, plain bolt/ing piece, buttplate held with nails, welded rear sight). Seems like it was little used.

 

[Heatseeker]

I have done the rust blue method on a couple of guns. It comes out real nice if you take the time to do it right.

Another method I have used in order to try and save what original finish may remain involved transmission fluid and a copper scrapper(I cut a piece of 1 1/2" pipe into a scrapper). Swab an area with the atf and let it soak for an extended period. Come back later, re-swab and start scrapping the loosened rust off. Keeping the area well moistened helps. It's a messy process, but the results can be surprising. I am not sure it would work with what you have there but it might be worth a little test area to find out.

 

[Nrh92]

Seconds on the boiling rust conversion. Boiling the parts in distilled water for about 30 min to and Hour (sometimes repeatedly) and carding either with bronze wool or a carding wheel. I’ve done this with pretty good results on a Beretta M1934, modelo 91/38 Carcano, and an Enfield No4 Mk2 4 Mk2.

 

[sandsnow]

Here is the Type 99. I used WD penetrating spray and scotchbrite. I used dremel attachment 280 grit on some stubborn areas. Did get down to metal in some areas, but oh well. I'm pretty happy with it. I used steel wool lightly on the stock. I rubbed cutting board oil on it after. I think it brought out color pretty good.

I started the Type 38. The front trigger guard screw is frozen. I'm surprised because that rifle was pretty well greased. ANyway I think I'm going to have to drill it out. Thankfuly replacement screws are available.

 

[sjb323]

Looks nice. Be careful with the finish on the Japanese rifles. They used a lacquer finish that was made from poison oak. Apparently, sanding down a Japanese stock can cause a lot of discomfort!

For the stuck screw, before you drill it out, let it soak in Kroil for a week or so. That stuff works wonders (available on Amazon). If you can, use a little bit of heat to try and loosen things up, and always use a tight fitting screwdriver to avoid messing up the screw head.

 

[sandsnow]

TYpe 38 done. Got the screw out. Had to use a 3/8 ratchet, 1/4 inch socket and screw driver tip plus all my weight holding tip in screw as I turned.

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

I got two Arisakas with bad rust. I would like to know what has worked for you if you've had a similar project.
I have used vinegar in rusty motorcycle tanks which worked well. I'm not sure of any cons with guns. I would need a long tank to soak the rifles though.
So far I have just used some oil and toothbrush to uncover markings.
I have used oil and steel wool before but that took the bluing underneath off.
One is a Type 38 Series 27, matching parts, missing dust cover and cleaning rod
The other is a Type 99 Series 6, missing dust cover, cleaning rod and AA wings.
Thanks

Hoppes #9 and copper gun tooth brush? I restored a friends very old, neglected, improperly stored, and rusted Ruger 10/22 with that method.

I think if that rust has been on there for a long time, there might be a possibility of removing blueing with more aggressive methods. However, even if it was a soak with chemicals to remove it where agitation is not needed; one might risk patina from the etching of the rust. The downside of this scenario is it’s an C&R; so I’m guessing you would not want to do the cerakote method as a follow up?