Cracked Sig optic frame - calling all bubbas (or any shops who are willing)

[tradecraft]

I came across this Sig Sauer Romeo 8T with a cracked frame (mounting area). The previous owner likely mixed up ft-lbs and in-lbs. Sig will not work on the optic since it was warrantied in the past, but I'm wondering if there's a way to eventually mount this to a 22lr plinker. It will roughly line up on a pictatinny rail, but eventually twists to the side after the mounting hex nut is turned. I only have access to hand tools so this is way outside of my scope of work. Folks, any cost-effective ideas before I turn this into a fancy paperweight? @AR15barrels

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

I came across this Sig Sauer Romeo 8T with a cracked frame (mounting area). The previous owner likely mixed up ft-lbs and in-lbs. Sig will not work on the optic since it was warrantied in the past, but I'm wondering if there's a way to eventually mount this to a 22lr plinker. It will roughly line up on a pictatinny rail, but eventually twists to the side after the mounting hex nut is turned. I only have access to hand tools so this is way outside of my scope of work. Folks, any cost-effective ideas before I turn this into a fancy paperweight? @AR15barrels

Yeh, I had that happen to an 8t. I thought about re-welding the old one for a .22lr; but ended up not doing it.

Maybe if you can bend the aluminum back in place, bang it in with a dead blow, maybe jb weld for aluminum in the cracked area; you could still mount it but maybe lower torque than the recommended 65 inch (or was it 85?) pounds. I know the 4t, T pro, and XT Pro are all 65 inch pounds for the nut; but I remember 8t was slightly more?

How I cracked the one I had was, after zero-ing at the range on home defense carbine, shooting it for a bit; I re-torqued without loosening the 1/2 inch nut first. Even at the set 65 inch pounds (or was it 85?), the torque wrench just kept going.

 

[compshell]

I’m not familiar with this specific optic, but applying heat through welding would probably cause more damage. Unless the frame can be isolated from the electronics. Then you have to worry about warping if not properly clamped down.

Would using industrial metal epoxy with clamping work- can even add a couple of studs into it for support. I guess it comes down to how much time/effort you want to put into an optic. Not sure what these retail either?

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

I’m not familiar with this specific optic, but applying heat through welding would probably cause more damage. Unless the frame can be isolated from the electronics. Then you have to worry about warping if not properly clamped down.

Would using industrial metal epoxy with clamping work- can even add a couple of studs into it for support. I guess it comes down to how much time/effort you want to put into an optic. Not sure what these retail either?

Retail? About the same as an Eotech

 

[Ron Swanson]

The first thing that comes to mind is to JB weld or epoxy it to some QR pic mount that could be again QR mounted to pic rail…not sure even sure if something like that is made. Or jb/epoxy mount it to a MLOK pic rail that can me then mlok mounted to a slot.

 

[Experimentalist]

(Edited to add: I just saw the electronic control buttons near the location of damage. In that case heat based solutions may not be advised).

Perhaps this is an opportunity to learn silver soldering?

There are good videos on how to do it, and the tools are cheap (sliver solder and a blow torch, maybe cleaning solvents too).

I've silver soldered a pic rail to the dust cover of a 1911 pistol I've customized. I don't think it's coming off, maybe if kryptonite is involved.

 

[AR15barrels]

That optic housing was likely cast to break like that.
I would possibly clamp the broken part back into place and drill/tap for some very small screws to re-attach the broken piece, but the feasibility of that depends on how much material there is available above the split for the screws to thread into.
The right way to do this job is to remove all the electronics from the housing first.
That's likely not possible as these types of things are usually glued closed and not meant to ever be disassembled.

 

[GoldensRule]

I came across this Sig Sauer Romeo 8T with a cracked frame (mounting area). The previous owner likely mixed up ft-lbs and in-lbs. Sig will not work on the optic since it was warrantied in the past, but I'm wondering if there's a way to eventually mount this to a 22lr plinker. It will roughly line up on a pictatinny rail, but eventually twists to the side after the mounting hex nut is turned. I only have access to hand tools so this is way outside of my scope of work. Folks, any cost-effective ideas before I turn this into a fancy paperweight? @AR15barrels

I would try a high quality cyanoacrylate glue. That will add the least dimension to the material, will flow into most of the crevices and will likely provide a lifetime bond as long as you clean the surfaces and clamp them securely.

 

[Experimentalist]

That optic housing was likely cast to break like that...

Your experience is certainly valued and appreciated. I'm curious to know if you're willing to expand on this statement?

It suggests a deliberate decision on the part of the manufacturer. If that is your belief, have you seen similar intent in other commercial products?

Thanks in advance.

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

That optic housing was likely cast to break like that.
I would possibly clamp the broken part back into place and drill/tap for some very small screws to re-attach the broken piece, but the feasibility of that depends on how much material there is available above the split for the screws to thread into.
The right way to do this job is to remove all the electronics from the housing first.
That's likely not possible as these types of things are usually glued closed and not meant to ever be disassembled.

The most I could gut for spare parts before tossing the old unit was just the exterior titanium housing with screws, and battery cover.

 

[AR15barrels]

Your experience is certainly valued and appreciated. I'm curious to know if you're willing to expand on this statement?

Google stress riser.
Crack originates from one.

 

[AR15barrels]

No way, I refuse to believe that Sig would make a poorly designed product that leaves the consumer disappointed and then leave them high and dry as well When it comes to Warranty for the problem

Maybe you need to quote me a few more times.
Like maybe 37-40 more.

 

[packy14]

That optic housing was likely cast to break like that.
I would possibly clamp the broken part back into place and drill/tap for some very small screws to re-attach the broken piece, but the feasibility of that depends on how much material there is available above the split for the screws to thread into.
The right way to do this job is to remove all the electronics from the housing first.
That's likely not possible as these types of things are usually glued closed and not meant to ever be disassembled.

No way, I refuse to believe that Sig would make a poorly designed product that leaves the consumer disappointed and then leave them high and dry as well When it comes to Warranty for the problem

 

[AR15barrels]

No way, I refuse to believe that Sig would make a poorly designed product that leaves the consumer disappointed and then leave them high and dry as well When it comes to Warranty for the problem

Definitely not 37-40 re-quotes as requested.
-2 internets to you.