Sig Sauer P322 on roster

[Ktm45]

Any issues with malfunctions with the red dot? I seen online that armory craft and sig guy sell a lower weight recoil spring to help the slide reciprocate easier with the weight of the optic on that aluminum slide.

For us with the non threaded model, it seems like we would need to remove the C clip which locks the washer and spring in place in order to replace the spring.

Also if you do decide to change the recoil spring to the lighter version it easier to remove that c clip by leaving the slide on and locking the slide back. I took a paper clip and cut it into another c clip shape and used it as a tool that I could use to push on both ends of the clip on the barrel. Push just hard enough to either put something between the clip and the barrel… or just grab it to keep it from shooting off into the next room . Personally I’ve got pretty good at working on small spring stuff inside a big clear zip lock bag…. I learned that lesson working on a CZ decocker. I’m still looking for that spring . When the clip is off just remove the slide off (BUT DONT MISPLACE THE LITTLE COLLAR ) . The assembly order goes barrel, spring, collar, and clip. You can put the clip back on before you put slide back on unlike taking the clip off..
Loading the magazine correctly will fix almost any issues on FTF. There are videos on the internet about doing that. I just turn the magazine when full after filled, reliever the spring tension just a bit and shake it once. That staggers the rounds .

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

I removed the magazine drop from my 322 and also put in the armory craft trigger. Both were very easy to do. The pre travel adjustment is kinda sensitive. When you get the trigger at its “best adjustment” you will have to back of just a bit as when the safety is set you can pull the trigger through it. So just back it off and it’s good to go. As far as the lighter recoil springs goes I also bought one or two to try as I put a Swampfox dot on it. IMHO this/my 322 likes the factory unit much better. With the factory unit the only ammo that did not worked was the Armscor. Kinda made me chuckle a bit because my CZ Kadet 2 loves the armscor!! But the 322 eats everything I fed it every time. It’s the only sig I own…. Not a big sig fan….but I am a 322 fan.

So, for the armory craft trigger do you prefer having an adjustment range? Or would you prefer something that is already pre-set like the tandem kross victory trigger?

What happened when you put in the armory craft recoil spring?

 

[Ktm45]

So, for the armory craft trigger do you prefer having an adjustment range? Or would you prefer something that is already pre-set like the tandem kross victory trigger?

What happened when you put in the armory craft recoil spring?

Well imo it’s always better to be able to make adjustments. You could get a preset unit and it could be great…or not…or anywhere in between.
To get it good with the AC trigger you have to do a few dry runs without loctite . When you get it figured out and go with loctite you may still end up adjusting.. ha ha. I can think of a better way to the way they insert the two screws. Both screws share the same threaded hole and the over screw (the shorter one) requires the hex wrench going through in the same way as inserting the pre travel screw so the hex hole for the wrench is covered up. In other words you have to take out the pre travel screw to get to the over travel screw… plus if you got loctite in the wrench side hole you may be in a pinch. I think decided the next time I took it apart i was going to put the over travel screw in backwards so the hex hole is available to adjust from the outside. Does that make sense?? That and I wish they would have sent the screws with the pre applied blue loctite patches. That stuff is much better on stuff like this. So yes personally I would prefer adjustment screws as I’m a tinkerer .

Now I’m not the only one that thinks the safety could use some work. When you apply it it seems to have two positions. When you feel the first one you/me and everyone else will think you are done. If you pull the trigger there it will drop the hammer. You have to push harder on the safety lever to get to “the second” position. On mine this was like this new. I’ve read others have felt the same thing on theirs new also. In my NOT so humble opinion I wouldn’t rely on this system as a cocked and locked unit… Just make sure to be deliberate when you apply the safety and you are golden . If you nonchalantly apply the safety… well don’t.

As far as the spring….Im a light recoil spring guy most of the time. My handguns are mainly for gaming and recreation. My hd weapon is a bone stock Glock. They always go bang but feel like a ford pinto. So to answer your question…light strikes but makes almost zero sense other then it was not going all the way into battery . Like 99.5% into battery but just enough to cause a light strikes. Personally I think the main spring has a HUGE effect on recoil management. Just rack the slide once and you’ll get my point. At the end of the day the juice isn’t worth the squeeze regarding the lighter recoil spring. Just to be clear here I think this P322 is a great gun! It falls under the category of things a guy should have in life like a 10/22, a video of caddyshack, and at one time a VW bug . This 22 is just flat fun and not ever boring. I tried one of these in Utah late last year and had so much fun that day that when I returned I bought one. Like the day after I got home. It’s a keeper!!! But I almost forgot the stock sights are very poor again imo so I dotted mine like the day after I got it….which was about 800 rounds worth. Buy a bunch of mags. A good running .22lr handgun in California means you need a bunch of magazines.

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Well imo it’s always better to be able to make adjustments. You could get a preset unit and it could be great…or not…or anywhere in between.
To get it good with the AC trigger you have to do a few dry runs without loctite . When you get it figured out and go with loctite you may still end up adjusting.. ha ha. I can think of a better way to the way they insert the two screws. Both screws share the same threaded hole and the over screw (the shorter one) requires the hex wrench going through in the same way as inserting the pre travel screw so the hex hole for the wrench is covered up. In other words you have to take out the pre travel screw to get to the over travel screw… plus if you got loctite in the wrench side hole you may be in a pinch. I think decided the next time I took it apart i was going to put the over travel screw in backwards so the hex hole is available to adjust from the outside. Does that make sense?? That and I wish they would have sent the screws with the pre applied blue loctite patches. That stuff is much better on stuff like this. So yes personally I would prefer adjustment screws as I’m a tinkerer .

Now I’m not the only one that thinks the safety could use some work. When you apply it it seems to have two positions. When you feel the first one you/me and everyone else will think you are done. If you pull the trigger there it will drop the hammer. You have to push harder on the safety lever to get to “the second” position. On mine this was like this new. I’ve read others have felt the same thing on theirs new also. In my NOT so humble opinion I wouldn’t rely on this system as a cocked and locked unit… Just make sure to be deliberate when you apply the safety and you are golden . If you nonchalantly apply the safety… well don’t.

As far as the spring….Im a light recoil spring guy most of the time. My handguns are mainly for gaming and recreation. My hd weapon is a bone stock Glock. They always go bang but feel like a ford pinto. So to answer your question…light strikes but makes almost zero sense other then it was not going all the way into battery . Like 99.5% into battery but just enough to cause a light strikes. Personally I think the main spring has a HUGE effect on recoil management. Just rack the slide once and you’ll get my point. At the end of the day the juice isn’t worth the squeeze regarding the lighter recoil spring. Just to be clear here I think this P322 is a great gun! It falls under the category of things a guy should have in life like a 10/22, a video of caddyshack, and at one time a VW bug . This 22 is just flat fun and not ever boring. I tried one of these in Utah late last year and had so much fun that day that when I returned I bought one. Like the day after I got home. It’s a keeper!!! But I almost forgot the stock sights are very poor again imo so I dotted mine like the day after I got it….which was about 800 rounds worth. Buy a bunch of mags. A good running .22lr handgun in California means you need a bunch of magazines.

If you like the pre-set kind of thread locker, you can try vibra-tite vc-3 or buy the Brownells generic version, you apply it and let it dry on a piece of cardboard between 10-30 mins before even threading it in. It’s good for screws that are not exposed to high heat as the temp resistance isn’t as high. It can be re-used up to 5 times before needing to re-coat the threads. Plus I like that it doesn’t leave a hard to remove residue like blue loctite. I know American defense mfg. recommends that on their aluminum pic rail mounts over blue loctite; as they say use of blue loctite will void warranty since vc-3 prevents stripping of threads.

However for high heat sources, where I don’t want to use red loctite, blue loctites temp resistance is better than permatex blue or orange.

Does armory craft provided extra set screws just in case people lose them?

 

[Ktm45]

If you like the pre-set kind of thread locker, you can try vibra-tite vc-3 or buy the Brownells generic version, you apply it and let it dry on a piece of cardboard between 10-30 mins before even threading it in. It’s good for screws that are not exposed to high heat as the temp resistance isn’t as high. It can be re-used up to 5 times before needing to re-coat the threads. Plus I like that it doesn’t leave a hard to remove residue like blue loctite. I know American defense mfg. recommends that on their aluminum pic rail mounts over blue loctite; as they say use of blue loctite will void warranty since vc-3 prevents stripping of threads.

However for high heat sources, where I don’t want to use red loctite, blue loctites temp resistance is better than permatex blue or orange.

Does armory craft provided extra set screws just in case people lose them?

Thank you for your recommendation on the vibra-tite and letting it set up first. I just put the post it note on my desk .
I don’t remember off hand if it came with extra screws or not. I want to say no… but…. I am also a guy that always has/wants extras of little things like that. My bigger issue sometimes is where I put those extra parts.. . Again thanks for your tip on the vibra-tite.

 

[aardvark9]

Inspired by this thread, I opened up my P322 and removed the magazine block and after figuring out how to get the dangling strut to line up correctly (third time is the charm), it all went back together just fine. Magazines drop freely now. Thanks for the inspiration to those who mentioned it!

 

[Ktm45]

Inspired by this thread, I opened up my P322 and removed the magazine block and after figuring out how to get the dangling strut to line up correctly (third time is the charm), it all went back together just fine. Magazines drop freely now. Thanks for the inspiration to those who mentioned it!

It’s a fun 22. And yup the strut is kinda misleading imo.

 

[GoldensRule]

If you like the pre-set kind of thread locker, you can try vibra-tite vc-3 or buy the Brownells generic version, you apply it and let it dry on a piece of cardboard between 10-30 mins before even threading it in. It’s good for screws that are not exposed to high heat as the temp resistance isn’t as high. It can be re-used up to 5 times before needing to re-coat the threads. Plus I like that it doesn’t leave a hard to remove residue like blue loctite. I know American defense mfg. recommends that on their aluminum pic rail mounts over blue loctite; as they say use of blue loctite will void warranty since vc-3 prevents stripping of threads.

However for high heat sources, where I don’t want to use red loctite, blue loctites temp resistance is better than permatex blue or orange.

Does armory craft provided extra set screws just in case people lose them?

Great product tip! Thanks!

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Thank you for your recommendation on the vibra-tite and letting it set up first. I just put the post it note on my desk .
I don’t remember off hand if it came with extra screws or not. I want to say no… but…. I am also a guy that always has/wants extras of little things like that. My bigger issue sometimes is where I put those extra parts.. . Again thanks for your tip on the vibra-tite.

I use a mtm ammo crate as a parts bin. I label small zip bags with blue masking tape and write on it with a sharpie of what the part is and condition. something like “Armory craft p322 adjustable trigger spare screws - new”

 

[Ktm45]

I use a mtm ammo crate as a parts bin. I label small zip bags with blue masking tape and write on it with a sharpie of what the part is and condition. something like “Armory craft p322 adjustable trigger spare screws - new”

I have separated plastic parts bins for my CZs, ARs, Rugers, Canik, and Walther but this is my lone sig so I do have it in a bag in the Glock bin as it doesn’t earn/deserve its own plastic parts bin. . I knew where it was as I wrote on this thread as it was with the two light recoil springs. I was just joking

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Sig p322 update.

Tandem Kross sig p322 victory trigger will fit the California version; even though TK website says it doesn’t. You will need to remove the magazine disconnect. I already did that last time. But I went back and removed the MD spring I left in there (forgot to remove last time) and the black pin in the picture from the Oem trigger metal housing. Here are pictures installed; there was a guy on Reddit who said it didn’t fit but I noticed people saying he needed to remove magazine disconnect. So I thought I would give it a try. Dry function testing, it’s working, reset is fine, and pull is good; just need to go to range to test it. Need to see if it will reset fine during actual live .22lr blow back fire. I was able to insert the trigger all the way so I can install the factory set screw which that guy couldn’t get the clearance.

Hope this helps someone else who is deciding between armory craft and tandem kross; thinking that armory craft has been the only one confirmed to fit. Now you know TK fits too! I thought I would be at a loss today and need to sell it out of state but I didn’t!

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Trigger pull gauge with Tandem Kross Victory Trigger when measuring from bottom of the trigger tip is 3lbs. When measuring further up near the middle; 4lbs.

When pulling slowly with finger, it feels more of a crisp roll, with some of a wall, but the roll is smooth to get past it where it’s not a very well defined wall (not very noticeable). Some of the pre-travel (not all) has been taken out compared to Oem. Reset feels a little shorter but it would be nicer if it was even shorter.

The factory Oem one had more of pre-travel before getting to the wall and feels more like a defensive trigger kind of pull but had a little mush feel to it too.


I wonder if this TK trigger will lower in pull weight or feel different after 500 rounds.

Sorry, but I did not measure with factory Oem trigger for trigger pull gauge.

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Just wanted to confirm that the Tk trigger is running great at the range today.

 

[Spork]

Sorry for bringing up an old comment but how come the M&P 22 / 22x and Taurus TX22 are not on roster? It's crazy these .22s are not here

Came upon this thread researching a .22 plinker and I hope Smith and Wesson can continue the great roster moves and bring us the M&P, would love a plinker in that line in the same style of my main carry.

For now the Mark IV is looking real tempting given the reputation, but a man can dream and hope.