Any practical reason to have a .308/7.62 X 51?

[ButteFlyFisher]

Since you can shoot 7.62x51 in 308 Winchester rifles, I'd assume if you can get them (ammo) for cheaper then they're good for practicing?

762 is normally minute of man. Hard to do any kind of precision practice with it, but if you are ringing steel or practicing running and gunning like in a match it works.

 

[Fulcrum]

I’d like to thank this thread for sending me down a rabbit hole of planning out a configuration and shopping list for a Springfield M1A setup that I definitely do not need and can’t afford right now. Thanks!

 

[Gawernator]

I hugged my AR-10

 

[chiroken007]

I’d like to thank this thread for sending me down a rabbit hole of planning out a configuration and shopping list for a Springfield M1A setup that I definitely do not need and can’t afford right now. Thanks!

What are you considering? Mine is en route to FFL as we speak.

 

[Fulcrum]

What are you considering? Mine is en route to FFL as we speak.

I’m getting used to using Google AI and figuring out how to ask my questions and refine my prompts to get good, usable answers, so this is what I got when I started comparing different .308 Garand family rifles and, providing info about how I want to use it, and asking follow-up questions.

I started off by asking questions about comparing accuracy of the M1 Garand, CMP civilian M14, and the Springfield Armory M1A. That narrowed it down to the M14 and M1A for accuracy.

Then I asked about mounting optics, and the answer was that it’s much easier to mount optics on the M1A than the surplus M14s. You can mount optics scout style on the M1A Scout Squad models, or mount on the receiver with one of a few different after-market side mounts.

I want mine for general range fun, possibly some CMP-type matches, and also as a battle rifle for when the world ends. The SOCOM models are a bit too short for matches and not really appealing to me. The scout mounted optics are not a great option for my use case due to the type of optics that can mount in that position and barrel harmonics with the optic mounted to the barrel, but I like the 18” barrel of the Scout Squad models for lighter weight and better balance. The Standard model 22” length is not a bad option, but a bit heavier and balanced more front heavy than the Scout for standing position offhand shooting. The Loaded version is apparently more accurate, but is even heavier and more front heavy. According to the AI answers the velocity and performance difference between the 18” and 22” is not that big. So the best of both worlds for my situation would be to buy the Scout Squad, remove the scout rail, remove the scout cutout handguard, and replace with the standard fiberglass handguard. It shaves off some weight, distributes the weight for better balance, and reduces issues with barrel harmonics. I was kind of torn between a wood stock or synthetic, but chose synthetic for weight and cost savings just for the planning phase.

For mounting the scope, I chose the Sadlak aluminum mount for weight savings, Low Vortex Pro rings, and a Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40 scope. For eye alignment I chose a Mathew’s Fabrication cheek riser. And for a sling, I chose a USGI cotton web sling.

Total weight for the complete setup is 10lb, 3oz., which is not bad for a scoped battle rifle. Total MSRP for everything is $2,740. Then I asked it to budget for 3 more mags, use typical retail pricing instead of MSRP, add CA sales tax, firearms sin tax, and DROS. It came to about $2,850 total out the door for a real-world estimate.

Like I said, I’m not ready to make that kind of purchase or spend that kind of money. But if I buy a .308, it could easily be something similar. No doubt, I would not get it all at once. I’d probably buy the Scout model in a wood stock, the sling, and the mags and use the irons or an existing red dot on the scout mount to get familiar with the rifle. Then after shooting it awhile, buy the Sadlak mount and the Mathews fabrication cheek riser, and put an existing scope and rings on it. Then eventually remove the scout rail, swap out the handguard, get a lightweight synthetic stock. Maybe upgrade the optics down the road.

So that’s my rabbit hole!

What do you have coming in to your FFL?

 

[Gawernator]

I’m getting used to using Google AI and figuring out how to ask my questions and refine my prompts to get good, usable answers, so this is what I got when I started comparing different .308 Garand family rifles and, providing info about how I want to use it, and asking follow-up questions.

I started off by asking questions about comparing accuracy of the M1 Garand, CMP civilian M14, and the Springfield Armory M1A. That narrowed it down to the M14 and M1A for accuracy.

Then I asked about mounting optics, and the answer was that it’s much easier to mount optics on the M1A than the surplus M14s. You can mount optics scout style on the M1A Scout Squad models, or mount on the receiver with one of a few different after-market side mounts.

I want mine for general range fun, possibly some CMP-type matches, and also as a battle rifle for when the world ends. The SOCOM models are a bit too short for matches and not really appealing to me. The scout mounted optics are not a great option for my use case due to the type of optics that can mount in that position and barrel harmonics with the optic mounted to the barrel, but I like the 18” barrel of the Scout Squad models for lighter weight and better balance. The Standard model 22” length is not a bad option, but a bit heavier and balanced more front heavy than the Scout for standing position offhand shooting. The Loaded version is apparently more accurate, but is even heavier and more front heavy. According to the AI answers the velocity and performance difference between the 18” and 22” is not that big. So the best of both worlds for my situation would be to buy the Scout Squad, remove the scout rail, remove the scout cutout handguard, and replace with the standard fiberglass handguard. It shaves off some weight, distributes the weight for better balance, and reduces issues with barrel harmonics. I was kind of torn between a wood stock or synthetic, but chose synthetic for weight and cost savings just for the planning phase.

For mounting the scope, I chose the Sadlak aluminum mount for weight savings, Low Vortex Pro rings, and a Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40 scope. For eye alignment I chose a Mathew’s Fabrication cheek riser. And for a sling, I chose a USGI cotton web sling.

Total weight for the complete setup is 10lb, 3oz., which is not bad for a scoped battle rifle. Total MSRP for everything is $2,740. Then I asked it to budget for 3 more mags, use typical retail pricing instead of MSRP, add CA sales tax, firearms sin tax, and DROS. It came to about $2,850 total out the door for a real-world estimate.

Like I said, I’m not ready to make that kind of purchase or spend that kind of money. But if I buy a .308, it could easily be something similar. No doubt, I would not get it all at once. I’d probably buy the Scout model in a wood stock, the sling, and the mags and use the irons or an existing red dot on the scout mount to get familiar with the rifle. Then after shooting it awhile, buy the Sadlak mount and the Mathews fabrication cheek riser, and put an existing scope and rings on it. Then eventually remove the scout rail, swap out the handguard, get a lightweight synthetic stock. Maybe upgrade the optics down the road.

So that’s my rabbit hole!

What do you have coming in to your FFL?

Use ChatGPT if you're gonna use an AI or Claude, the google AI is not good

 

[Tere_Hanges]

762 is normally minute of man. Hard to do any kind of precision practice with it, but if you are ringing steel or practicing running and gunning like in a match it works.

It depends on the manufacturer and lot, but I usually get close to, if not MOA, using military 762 with my Aero M5 20" stainless heavy barrel or SCAR. I also get pretty good accuracy with reloads using military 762 brass, pulled 762 projectiles, and 44 grains of TAC. I don't even trim the cases or clean the brass that well. My reloads are blasting rounds, not precision rounds.

 

[Tere_Hanges]

I’m getting used to using Google AI and figuring out how to ask my questions and refine my prompts to get good, usable answers, so this is what I got when I started comparing different .308 Garand family rifles and, providing info about how I want to use it, and asking follow-up questions.

I started off by asking questions about comparing accuracy of the M1 Garand, CMP civilian M14, and the Springfield Armory M1A. That narrowed it down to the M14 and M1A for accuracy.

Then I asked about mounting optics, and the answer was that it’s much easier to mount optics on the M1A than the surplus M14s. You can mount optics scout style on the M1A Scout Squad models, or mount on the receiver with one of a few different after-market side mounts.

I want mine for general range fun, possibly some CMP-type matches, and also as a battle rifle for when the world ends. The SOCOM models are a bit too short for matches and not really appealing to me. The scout mounted optics are not a great option for my use case due to the type of optics that can mount in that position and barrel harmonics with the optic mounted to the barrel, but I like the 18” barrel of the Scout Squad models for lighter weight and better balance. The Standard model 22” length is not a bad option, but a bit heavier and balanced more front heavy than the Scout for standing position offhand shooting. The Loaded version is apparently more accurate, but is even heavier and more front heavy. According to the AI answers the velocity and performance difference between the 18” and 22” is not that big. So the best of both worlds for my situation would be to buy the Scout Squad, remove the scout rail, remove the scout cutout handguard, and replace with the standard fiberglass handguard. It shaves off some weight, distributes the weight for better balance, and reduces issues with barrel harmonics. I was kind of torn between a wood stock or synthetic, but chose synthetic for weight and cost savings just for the planning phase.

For mounting the scope, I chose the Sadlak aluminum mount for weight savings, Low Vortex Pro rings, and a Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40 scope. For eye alignment I chose a Mathew’s Fabrication cheek riser. And for a sling, I chose a USGI cotton web sling.

Total weight for the complete setup is 10lb, 3oz., which is not bad for a scoped battle rifle. Total MSRP for everything is $2,740. Then I asked it to budget for 3 more mags, use typical retail pricing instead of MSRP, add CA sales tax, firearms sin tax, and DROS. It came to about $2,850 total out the door for a real-world estimate.

Like I said, I’m not ready to make that kind of purchase or spend that kind of money. But if I buy a .308, it could easily be something similar. No doubt, I would not get it all at once. I’d probably buy the Scout model in a wood stock, the sling, and the mags and use the irons or an existing red dot on the scout mount to get familiar with the rifle. Then after shooting it awhile, buy the Sadlak mount and the Mathews fabrication cheek riser, and put an existing scope and rings on it. Then eventually remove the scout rail, swap out the handguard, get a lightweight synthetic stock. Maybe upgrade the optics down the road.

So that’s my rabbit hole!

What do you have coming in to your FFL?

Buy a used M1A and save some cash. I have a Scout and a National Match. I got both of them used. New M1A's are ridiculously overpriced. My NM has iron sights. The Scout has a Burris 1-6x illuminated optic.

An AR is much better for using an optic. I have a 16" M&P10 and a 20" Aero M5 with 3-9x and 4-12x optics, respectively. If you go the AR route, just buy a complete rifle or at least a complete upper. Everyone I know who has tried to build a 308 AR upper from a stripped receiver has had problems.

 

[Fulcrum]

Use ChatGPT if you're gonna use an AI or Claude, the google AI is not good

I have very little experience with AI. I’m just getting used to it for internet research. I’ve had some nonsense answers on other topics. But I felt like the answers I was getting to these questions made sense, and they checked out factually when I double-checked numbers and looked at the cited sources. I’m definitely open to feedback on the logic of the things I “picked” for this project that may never happen.

 

[chiroken007]

I’m getting used to using Google AI and figuring out how to ask my questions and refine my prompts to get good, usable answers, so this is what I got when I started comparing different .308 Garand family rifles and, providing info about how I want to use it, and asking follow-up questions.

I started off by asking questions about comparing accuracy of the M1 Garand, CMP civilian M14, and the Springfield Armory M1A. That narrowed it down to the M14 and M1A for accuracy.

Then I asked about mounting optics, and the answer was that it’s much easier to mount optics on the M1A than the surplus M14s. You can mount optics scout style on the M1A Scout Squad models, or mount on the receiver with one of a few different after-market side mounts.

I want mine for general range fun, possibly some CMP-type matches, and also as a battle rifle for when the world ends. The SOCOM models are a bit too short for matches and not really appealing to me. The scout mounted optics are not a great option for my use case due to the type of optics that can mount in that position and barrel harmonics with the optic mounted to the barrel, but I like the 18” barrel of the Scout Squad models for lighter weight and better balance. The Standard model 22” length is not a bad option, but a bit heavier and balanced more front heavy than the Scout for standing position offhand shooting. The Loaded version is apparently more accurate, but is even heavier and more front heavy. According to the AI answers the velocity and performance difference between the 18” and 22” is not that big. So the best of both worlds for my situation would be to buy the Scout Squad, remove the scout rail, remove the scout cutout handguard, and replace with the standard fiberglass handguard. It shaves off some weight, distributes the weight for better balance, and reduces issues with barrel harmonics. I was kind of torn between a wood stock or synthetic, but chose synthetic for weight and cost savings just for the planning phase.

For mounting the scope, I chose the Sadlak aluminum mount for weight savings, Low Vortex Pro rings, and a Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40 scope. For eye alignment I chose a Mathew’s Fabrication cheek riser. And for a sling, I chose a USGI cotton web sling.

Total weight for the complete setup is 10lb, 3oz., which is not bad for a scoped battle rifle. Total MSRP for everything is $2,740. Then I asked it to budget for 3 more mags, use typical retail pricing instead of MSRP, add CA sales tax, firearms sin tax, and DROS. It came to about $2,850 total out the door for a real-world estimate.

Like I said, I’m not ready to make that kind of purchase or spend that kind of money. But if I buy a .308, it could easily be something similar. No doubt, I would not get it all at once. I’d probably buy the Scout model in a wood stock, the sling, and the mags and use the irons or an existing red dot on the scout mount to get familiar with the rifle. Then after shooting it awhile, buy the Sadlak mount and the Mathews fabrication cheek riser, and put an existing scope and rings on it. Then eventually remove the scout rail, swap out the handguard, get a lightweight synthetic stock. Maybe upgrade the optics down the road.

So that’s my rabbit hole!

What do you have coming in to your FFL?

Well… don’t hate me. lol.

https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1209593277

I have read repeatedly the sadlak and similar mounts are not known to hold zero very well. I’m curious how legitimate those concerns are.

If you get a Springfield M1A with the walnut stock. It will be the “big red” fat body. USGI M14 were slim body more similar to the polymer profile.

I am looking to get my hands on one of these T44 or Fulton. But the T44 doesn’t ship to CA. Working a solution for that.