P365 Tactical trigger kit

[Hamburger Monster]

Anyone install one in their P365? How do you like it? Was it worth the price?

This kit: https://tacticaltriggers.com/sig-sauer-p365-trigger-kit/

 

[Pears]

I recently purchased and installed the kit myself using the #2 spring. It effectively got rid of the creep after the trigger meets the wall. Its hard to justify the price given the lack of material you're actually buying, but imo its worth it if you're someone like me who absolutely despises the creep on the p365 trigger.

 

[Pears]

Oh wait I actually didn't get the full trigger it, I just bought the sear control spring kit, modified manual safety lever, and the armorer cap which is really all you need if you intend to keep carrying it. I don't think the pre-travel and over-travel are really necessary. I still see the pre-travel as a necessary safety to make sure the trigger doesn't incidentally raise and keep the safety lever raised.

P365® Sear Control Springs

P365 Trigger, P365 crisp break, P365 Sear engagement, P365 Trigger upgrade

tacticaltriggers.com

 

[Hamburger Monster]

I'll have to look into that. I've only fingered the trigger in the store before putting cash down. It's still in jail but it's supposed to be ready later today for pickup. But what I remember is about 10 feet of slack before you reach a higher resistance and another 5 feet before it trips the sear. Can't deel the sear or any wall. Can't tell when it's going to fire. Just keep pulling until it goes bang.

I prefer a trigger where you can tell that when you are up against the wall, pull any more and it will fire. Over travel is not the biggest issue as I'm not using it for competition. Removing some of the take-up would be nice as it adds a little more room for gloved fingers

The videos of the kit in action seem to show the trigger being very nice. But nothing beats in person fondling. I don't necessarily need or want a lighter pull, but being able to feel the sear is what I want along with a little shorter travel.

 

[Mil-Dot]

Im curious as well but I will never modify a carry gun. God forbid I use it in self defense. These commie bastards and uninformed jurors will send me to jail. The prosecutor will say I modified the trigger on the gun to make it kill easier and faster or some . I dont need that headache on top of everything else the state will throw at me to make me look like the criminal.

 

[Hamburger Monster]

Im curious as well but I will never modify a carry gun. God forbid I use it in self defense. These commie bastards and uninformed jurors will send me to jail. The prosecutor will say I modified the trigger on the gun to make it kill easier and faster or some . I dont need that headache on top of everything else the state will throw at me to make me look like the criminal.

I get this is theory, but I've never heard of a case where this actually occurred. And from the numerous attorney videos I've watched seems to indicate that these type of modifications are never the deciding factor in the outcome of a case.

There has been a few examples of skull and cross bones, and other symbols/text being used or scrutinized by the prosecutor. Or things that are actually illegal like short barrels, triggers that make them full auto, or some other conversation that changes the clarification of the firearm when the owner didn't go through the proper paperwork.

Modifications like this trigger, sights, lights or similar can all be argued by the defense to actually make the gun more safe as you are less likely to miss the target and hit bystanders.

But I do see your concern about making modifications to a carry gun. I guess it comes down to what risk vs reward your willing to take. I'm still not 100% on doing this upgrade. But am considering it based on what feedback I can get

 

[Hamburger Monster]

This one being a good example

 

[Mil-Dot]

This one being a good example

Thanks for this and I do see your point and his as well in the video. This is why i took the stickers off my mag baseplates. I had them on to distinguish them from my friends who have the same gun and we shoot together. Now I just use a few little yellow paint dots.

For me I shoot my 365XL very well as is so i'll keep it stock. I agree it should be personal preference, and I don't thinknt the 365xl trigger is that bad that I want to risk anything

However if it was a hellcat pro I would upgrade that trigger in a min.

 

[Pears]

I'll have to look into that. I've only fingered the trigger in the store before putting cash down. It's still in jail but it's supposed to be ready later today for pickup. But what I remember is about 10 feet of slack before you reach a higher resistance and another 5 feet before it trips the sear. Can't deel the sear or any wall. Can't tell when it's going to fire. Just keep pulling until it goes bang.

I prefer a trigger where you can tell that when you are up against the wall, pull any more and it will fire. Over travel is not the biggest issue as I'm not using it for competition. Removing some of the take-up would be nice as it adds a little more room for gloved fingers

The videos of the kit in action seem to show the trigger being very nice. But nothing beats in person fondling. I don't necessarily need or want a lighter pull, but being able to feel the sear is what I want along with a little shorter travel.

One thing for you to take note of that a lot of people overlook is that this kit gets rid of the creep by lowering sear engagement. The armorer cap isn't an option if you plan on installing this kit, you need to make sure there's still enough engagement from the sear to make sure the striker doesn't lose contact and fly forward.

For most that'll be the #2 spring in the sear spring kit, but you'd still want to either verify yourself or have a gunsmith do it for you. This isn't meant to deter you from purchasing, I still use it in my personal carry because I took the time to understand the mechanics of the modification.

Also, the installation can be frustrating if you don't have the right tools. I bought Sig Guys P365 Disassembly/Reassembly kit from a while back so the installation wasn't as difficult as it was time consuming. However, the installation requires you to move the Safety Lever Pivot Pin to a point where spring tension from the sear spring can lose contact and its a pain to get back in. Tactical Trigger does sell the "Armorer's Tool" that makes it incredibly easy to get the Safety Lever Pivot Pin back in, but you're better off just getting a gunsmith to do it for you if you don't at least have Sig Guys Kit or Tactical Triggers Armorer Tool.

 

[Jon F]

Check with your IA, some do not allow any mods to reduce trigger pull and travel. Santa Clara and San Mateo do not allow those changes.

 

[AR15barrels]

I'll have to look into that. I've only fingered the trigger in the store before putting cash down. It's still in jail but it's supposed to be ready later today for pickup. But what I remember is about 10 feet of slack before you reach a higher resistance and another 5 feet before it trips the sear. Can't deel the sear or any wall. Can't tell when it's going to fire. Just keep pulling until it goes bang.

I prefer a trigger where you can tell that when you are up against the wall, pull any more and it will fire. Over travel is not the biggest issue as I'm not using it for competition. Removing some of the take-up would be nice as it adds a little more room for gloved fingers

That "slack" at the beginning of the trigger pull is the safeties being disengaged.
If you eliminate that slack, you are basically holding the trigger to the rear and defeating the safeties.
It makes your trigger and the gun more like a cocked and unlocked 1911.

The trigger feel you want is typical of a hammer fired design.
I recommend you do not try to turn a striker fired design trigger into a hammer fired design feeling trigger as you will have a very unsafe gun.
You would do better to get a hammer fired gun with a proper manual safety that positively locks the sear so the hammer can not fall while the gun is on safe.

The S&W CSX is similarly sized to the P365 and is hammer fired with a manual safety.

 

[Hamburger Monster]

Check with your IA, some do not allow any mods to reduce trigger pull and travel. Santa Clara and San Mateo do not allow those changes.

Good advice. I don't see anything on the website about modifications. Some restrictions about caliber and rifles, etc. but nothing about modifications. I can also ask the CCW trainer too

 

[Hamburger Monster]

That "slack" at the beginning of the trigger pull is the safeties being disengaged.
If you eliminate that slack, you are basically holding the trigger to the rear and defeating the safeties.
It makes your trigger and the gun more like a ed and unlocked 1911.

This may be true. I'll have to check mine and see how far before the striker safety is disengaged. I say a video which seemed to indicate that the trigger had to be pulled quite a bit before it disabled the safety

 

[AR15barrels]

This may be true. I'll have to check mine and see how far before the striker safety is disengaged. I say a video which seemed to indicate that the trigger had to be pulled quite a bit before it disabled the safety

That "quite a bit" is the 10 feet of slack you are talking about above.
The 5 feet is the sear disengagement to let it fire.
The striker safety is supposed to be disabled before the sear starts to move.

So if you take out that 10ft, you are left with only the sear holding the striker and a disengaged striker safety.

 

[Hamburger Monster]

That "quite a bit" is the 10 feet of slack you are talking about above.
The 5 feet is the sear disengagement to let it fire.
The striker safety is supposed to be disabled before the sear starts to move.

So if you take out that 10ft, you are left with only the sear holding the striker and a disengaged striker safety.

I don't need or desire to removing all the slack. Just a little to make it not so bad

 

[Joker67]

I’ve got about 5400 rounds through my FCU , same trigger. Never had an issue with it. It’s not something I’ve noticed . It is smooth after use .

I’ve taken classes with it and competed badly with it from concealment . When shooting at speed , moving , doing target transitions, all I noticed was how much improvement my grip needed and that I need to improve trigger control. When that fell into place , the splits were faster and shots more accurate. The trigger itself didn’t matter as much as my wrists , grip and trigger control. It was the gun that showed me how much bad technique I had gotten away with using a full size gun.

 

[Hit Factor]

I get this is theory, but I've never heard of a case where this actually occurred.

No one has. It’s just something that people who make money writing books say to get more people to buy their books. Then people who paid the money for the book start spreading it around on the internet. It’s classic FUD in regards to any intentional use of deadly force to stop an imminent threat of death or great bodily injury.

 

[TheAverageShooter]

I don't need or desire to removing all the slack. Just a little to make it not so bad

How much slack is there between the reset and the wall?
Sometimes you just need to get used to the pretravel for the first shot and train to only release the trigger to the reset. This is one reason why I started to appreciate Glock triggers as the reset is right by the wall, once you learn to manage the pretravel they work pretty well. These are both target pistols.

 

[Hamburger Monster]

Went up to BLM land today and was able to sight in the red dot and put about 200 rounds through it. It worked almost flawless with only two times where it didn't fully go into battery and the trigger didn't do anything. Pushing on the back of the slide to lock it in solved it. Might just need a few more rounds in it to finish breaking it in

Opinions on the trigger. Doesn't feel as bad as my initial impressions. But it does feel really heavy after taking up the slack. Might try just a little polishing first before replacing anything.

Also the kick didn't seem as bad to me as some of the reviewers stated. I'm not recoil sensitive so that might play a part. Was not much different than my G19. It did seem accurate enough where if I was careful with aiming and trigger discipline I was grouping about 1 inch about 10 yards away. Otherwise it was about 4-6 inch groups. Even rapid fire with barley enough time to see the sight was less then dinner plate.

Contrast it with my G19 with a red dot and light. I hit the soda can about 25 yards away on the first try. But I have a lot more trigger time on that one. The trigger on it is likely one of the reasons too. I have the Glock performance trigger and it makes it a lot nicer.

I'll try a little polishing and breaking in before I do any modifications. For now I don't think I'll have any problems with the CCW shooting qualifications with the was it is now