Polishing stone recommendations - for things like trigger bars and parts

[john_marsten_1873]

I picked up a CJW pro kit for my Shadow and looking to do some polishing as well. I've yet to do any polishing work on firearms and I'm looking for recommendations on polishing stones in particular, but any other suggestions would also be appreciated. I have a Dremel, but also looking for recs on a dedicated, portable polishing wheel.

 

[RedHemi]

I don't use stones unless I want to remove material. For my CZ parts I want to polish I use my Dremel on low speed with cloth type polishing tips and polishing compound (mostly green). I also use Flitz paste polish for the finish polish. With CZ parts you don't need to get in there and rub hard to get a nice smooth surface.

 

[2muchsoysauce4allthisrice]

Why polishing stone? It would take away material very fast wouldn’t it? Don’t you think it would be more effective to use automative detailing metal polish with a little spritz of detail spray or flitz if nice and smooth is what you are going for? Polishing stone would be more if you were removing machining/tooling marks or rounding out edges; no?

 

[john_marsten_1873]

Why polishing stone? It would take away material very fast wouldn’t it? Don’t you think it would be more effective to use automative detailing metal polish with a little spritz of detail spray or flitz if nice and smooth is what you are going for? Polishing stone would be more if you were removing machining/tooling marks or rounding out edges; no?

So I was watching this video. You do need to remove some material but not going to a "mirror" finish. Just enough to get rid of the friction points. Using the polishing stone is supposed to provide a uniform surface to polish evenly. He doesn't list the polishing stone he's using in the video unfortunately, but I was going to take a look at his other videos.

 

[Funjeff]

I use Flitz as well, harder bristle brush, like the small end of common 2-sided Grey cleaning brush.

 

[tenemae]

I used 3000 grit sandpaper and brought my CZ Cajun Gun Works components to a literal mirror finish

 

[RedHemi]

So I was watching this video. You do need to remove some material but not going to a "mirror" finish. Just enough to get rid of the friction points. Using the polishing stone is supposed to provide a uniform surface to polish evenly. He doesn't list the polishing stone he's using in the video unfortunately, but I was going to take a look at his other videos.

I just finished watching that video and I somewhat understand why someone would use a stone to get a flat surface across the trigger bar. But I would think it would be only necessary in a bad trigger bar. Now making it flat like that would create less drag but you don't necessarily need a stone to accomplish making that surface flat. I have used high grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface to get the same result. What you want is a nice smooth trigger pull and sometimes just some light polishing in the right places where he pointed out will usually do the job. Now I will also point out that if you run your finger across the frame where the trigger bar runs it can also be rough. I have come across a few where I took a 3M Scotch Brite pad with some Flitz and gave it a little work to smooth it out. Everyone does things a little different but all that matters is don't overdo and think everything needs polished. Someone did ask the question on grit of the stones and he answered 400 & 800.

 

[john_marsten_1873]

I just finished watching that video and I somewhat understand why someone would use a stone to get a flat surface across the trigger bar. But I would think it would be only necessary in a bad trigger bar. Now making it flat like that would create less drag but you don't necessarily need a stone to accomplish making that surface flat. I have used high grit wet/dry sandpaper on a flat surface to get the same result. What you want is a nice smooth trigger pull and sometimes just some light polishing in the right places where he pointed out will usually do the job. Now I will also point out that if you run your finger across the frame where the trigger bar runs it can also be rough. I have come across a few where I took a 3M Scotch Brite pad with some Flitz and gave it a little work to smooth it out. Everyone does things a little different but all that matters is don't overdo and think everything needs polished. Someone did ask the question on grit of the stones and he answered 400 & 800.

Ah! Thanks for sharing this! Definitely don’t want to do more than is necessary.

 

[RedHemi]

Ah! Thanks for sharing this! Definitely don’t want to do more than is necessary.

Well I have 19 CZs and probably bought and sold that many you learn what needs to be done and what is not really necessary. I will say I do like to watch what others do because you can always learn something new to help.

 

[AR15barrels]

I use a scotchbrite deburring wheel to polish the outsides of a CZ trigger bow where they slide against the frame and sear cage.
For internal spots like on the double action shelf, I use a cratex point in a foredom tool.

 

[BubbaLa88]

Years ago black Arkansas stones were the the only option. Now diamond stones and polishing compounds on a flat surface are available.

 

[DIYPSCM]

Careful what you wish for... polishing can make for a long creepy trigger.