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Rost Martin R1MF comes to Califnoria

Screw stuck, will not budge

M_N04H

M_N04H

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Trying to remove this pic rail, I know I put the screw in with proper torque spec. I decided to back it out to make adjustments but now the screw won't budge. I managed to snap a torque bit. This has never happened before. It was only 18 inch pounds, and I know the loctite had no chance to dry yet. Any ideas or suggestions as to wtf happened and how to get this torque screw out?
 
You sure it’s not cross threaded? Blast it with a heat gun. If it’s not coming out I guess you’ll have to drill it
 
From personal experience before you break out the drill just take it to a professional. they can just tac weld a lever onto it or something. I've made a mess of some things lol
 
Gawernator said:
You sure it’s not cross threaded? Blast it with a heat gun. If it’s not coming out I guess you’ll have to drill it
Click to expand...
Pretty sure it's not. It freely went in initially before tightening it.
 
Soaked the bolt head and screw in CLP overnight, not sure if it'll do anything, but I'll try again later
 
Which strength loctite was used? Steel or aluminum receiver?
You can try soaking in Kroil for a couple hours, if that doesn’t work I’d take it to a gunsmith who has the ability to use a mill if needed.
I had a screw break while installing a scope base once, may have cost $25 to have it drilled out.
 
Trapper said:
Which strength loctite was used? Steel or aluminum receiver?
You can try soaking in Kroil for a couple hours, if that doesn’t work I’d take it to a gunsmith who has the ability to use a mill if needed.
I had a screw break while installing a scope base once, may have cost $25 to have it drilled out.
Click to expand...
Blue lock tit. But somewhat irrelevant only because I decided to back it out within minutes. So no way it already cured at that time.
 
Smack it with a rubber mallet? Heat is usually your friend. Torx bit on an impact gun on low setting. All else fails, extractor, or take it to someone who isn’t a caveman that can properly do it…
 
M_N04H said:
Blue lock tit. But somewhat irrelevant only because I decided to back it out within minutes. So no way it already cured at that time.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've had some challenges that resulted on using Medium Grade Loctite on small fasteners. Contrary to popular belief, it starts to cure instantly. It takes considerably longer to reach full strength. Similarly, the bond weakens with the application of heat, but doesn't reach minimum until you reach about 500℉. Obviously, you're not going to get your gun parts that hot. You can go to the web page for the specific product and see the graphs for times and temperatures. But let's focus on solving the problem.

First, you need GOOD tools. If your broken Torx bit is made of Chinesium, maybe using top-tier tools will solve the problem. Wera makes an impact screwdriver that is exactly what you need. It will set you back about a Benjamin. I would use the heat gun to get the work as hot as you dare, and then use the impact driver.

If you screw it all up, the next step is a left-handed drill bit. A milling machine is best, but a good drill press will suffice. A right-handed drill bit can get the job done if you're lucky. Since you're already behind the eight ball, there's no reason to make it harder on yourself. Buy yourself a set of left hand drill bits.
 
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I would see if you can get the slide in a soft jaw vice with a block of wood under the slide (to prevent it from getting knocked downwards) and hit it with an impact screwdriver. A solid hit may bust her free if the head is still in good shape.
 
Be very careful with a drill press. A #6-48 screw doesn't leave much room for error and most drill presses have 0.005" run out or more. Add a cheap drill bit and a little human error and you just drilled into your receiver.
 
Colloquially, we in the automotive business, call it the “hot wrench”, add some heat. You may have to take out internals, so as to not melt any plastics. Heat from side angle, but keep the small torch moving. You know one of those little butane torches.
 
I did something similar on a removing the set screw on my Winchester 1894. Had no idea they made gunsmith slotted screw drivers. Who knew. Had to have it drilled out and re-threaded with a larger set screw. Screwed (no pun intended) a brand new vintage lever .357
 
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