CCW Bodyguard 2.0 Owners: Comp or Non-Comp?

[paintballdad]

I just got my BG 2.0 shoe for the MGW Sight Pro so hopefully removing the rear sight won't be too difficult! Also, I'm assuming there's a correct direction W makes the best for rear sight removal.

Let me know if you run into any difficulty with removing the rear sight. I have the MGW RangeMaster amd need to order the BG shoe to drift the sights if it's off. MGW makes the best sight tools IMO.

 

[Wolkenflieger]

Let me know if you run into any difficulty with removing the rear sight. I have the MGW RangeMaster amd need to order the BG shoe to drift the sights if it's off. MGW makes the best sight tools IMO.

Thanks! The MGW pusher is the best, agreed. Seems overkill but ruining rear sights with hammering has its own cost. I like having dedicated shoes for specific slides.

Just GROKed it. Rear sight should be removed going left ro right toward ejection port, unlike CZ which is generally right to left.

"For the Smith & Wesson Bodyguard 2.0, the rear sight is typically drifted out from left to right (viewed from the rear of the slide, with the muzzle pointing away from you).

Many users and install videos follow or recommend this convention for S&W pistols like the Bodyguard 2.0 (and similar models), as dovetails are often slightly tapered or factory-installed in a preferred direction."

Verify before following instructions as Grok is AI.

 

[weaverftw]

Thanks! The MGW pusher is the best, agreed. Seems overkill but ruining rear sights with hammering has its own cost. I like having dedicated shoes for specific slides.

Just GROKed it. Rear sight should be removed going left ro right toward ejection port, unlike CZ which is generally right to left.

"For the Smith & Wesson Bodyguard 2.0, the rear sight is typically drifted out from left to right (viewed from the rear of the slide, with the muzzle pointing away from you).432ed8
This means you apply force to the left side of the rear sight (ejection port side on most setups) to push it out toward the right side of the slide.

Many users and install videos follow or recommend this convention for S&W pistols like the Bodyguard 2.0 (and similar models), as dovetails are often slightly tapered or factory-installed in a preferred direction."

This grok response makes no sense to me… it says drift out left to right, looking at the back of the slide. That would mean applying pressure to the mag release side and pushing out toward the ejection port side. But then it says apply pressure to the ejection port side which is the RIGHT side of the slide looking from the rear…

 

[Wolkenflieger]

This grok response makes no sense to me… it says drift out left to right, looking at the back of the slide. That would mean applying pressure to the mag release side and pushing out toward the ejection port side. But then it says apply pressure to the ejection port side which is the RIGHT side of the slide looking from the rear…

It's consistently left to right but yeah ejection port is on right. Removed wrong ejection port location reference.

 

[cobian1984]

I just got my BG 2.0 shoe for the MGW Sight Pro so hopefully removing the rear sight won't be too difficult! Also, I'm assuming there's a correct direction for rear sight removal.

I went left to right when removing mine and used the rubber side of my punch hammer on the crank to get it moving a bit easier. Once you get that initial pop it does begin to move out much more easily.

 

[1911.45forMe]

Finally picked up my 2.0 CC.

Looking forward to some range time.

 

[Wolkenflieger]

I went left to right when removing mine and used the rubber side of my punch hammer on the crank to get it moving a bit easier. Once you get that initial pop it does begin to move out much more easily.

Good tip, thanks! Yeah I researched this too and left-to-right is the correct direction.

UPDATE
Man this rear sight is tough to remove, even with the BG 2.0 shoe and the MGW Sight Pro. I'm using your rubber mallet method which is the only way I can budge it unless I put the entire thing into a vise, which I'd rather not do. It'll be slow-going but at least I won't damage it.

 

[cobian1984]

Good tip, thanks! Yeah I researched this too and left-to-right is the correct direction.

UPDATE
Man this rear sight is tough to remove, even with the BG 2.0 shoe and the MGW Sight Pro. I'm using your rubber mallet method which is the only way I can budge it unless I put the entire thing into a vise, which I'd rather not do. It'll be slow-going but at least I won't damage it.

Yep, it’s really pressed in there. At least it’s comforting to know that thing was definitely never going to walk out on its own.

 

[jgerfers]

Hello friends,

Now that the Bodyguard 2.0 has been out for a while and so many people are raving about it, I've decided to pick one up to replace my Sig P238 on my CCW permit.

I originally bought the P238 for situations where I'm wearing a suit with a tucked-in shirt or pocket carry. Since then, I've gotten comfortable carrying my Shield Plus in those situations, and the P238 has mostly been collecting dust.

With the Bodyguard 2.0, I'll have more capacity than the P238's 7 rounds while carrying a lighter gun for suits, shorts, pocket carry, appendix, or 4 o'clock carry.

My biggest question is whether to get the compensated version or the standard version.

I carry a Shield Plus regularly and also own a 3" V-Port slide from M&P. Shooting them back-to-back, I can definitely tell a difference, but that's a larger gun in 9mm.

I don't plan on adding a red dot to the Bodyguard 2.0.

For those of you who own both versions, or chose one over the other, what made you decide? Do you feel the comp is worth it on a gun this size, or would you stick with the standard model?

I'd appreciate any feedback and real-world experience.

I have both and I can say the comp model has way better trigger slightly less recoil. Both are very hard to rack the slide but in maybe break in. The comp is not that much more money and better bang for your buck.

 

[jgerfers]

Yep, it’s really pressed in there. At least it’s comforting to know that thing was definitely never going to walk out on its own.

I oiled the dove tail let it set couple hours to soak in then rapped a terry cloth towel around it clamped it in vise used a nylon dowel and mallet drove it out left to right was no harder than a Glock sight.

 

[weaverftw]

I oiled the dove tail let it set couple hours to soak in then rapped a terry cloth towel around it clamped it in vise used a nylon dowel and mallet drove it out left to right was no harder than a Glock sight.

For those who are not familiar, PB Blaster is absolute MAGIC on stuck bolts and can be used on sight dovetails. This plus locking the slide in a vise (I use wood spacers as they’re sturdier and won’t damage the slide, but a cloth could work too) and using a brass or nylon punch will knock just about anything out. My CZ75 rear sight was IN THERE and I was able to get it out using this method when a sight pusher wouldn’t budge it. This type of thing is better approached with a sharp “rap” with a solid hammer/punch rather than the gradual increase of pressure that sight pushers provide.

 

[Wolkenflieger]

Yep, it’s really pressed in there. At least it’s comforting to know that thing was definitely never going to walk out on its own.

Cobian, do you have the Comp model or non-comp?

I was able to mount the MGW Sight Pro into my vise (with clamp guards to prevent marring) and that worked perfectly. I was able to apply a lot of force to pop (and it really does make a little pop) the rear sight from left to right. The MGW Sight Pro would benefit from a little extra breaker bar add-on, or I could use some metal pipe I suppose.

The problem is, the Gideon Pebble dovetail mount is loose! It's not quite wide enough to wedge tightly (with a pusher) into the space left behind by the rear sight. It's labeled 9mm, but I wonder if the Carry Comp rear dovetail is different from the non-comp?

Now I'll have to write to Gideon. Either they didn't account for this, the part is manufactured incorrectly, or I'm missing a part specifically for the Carry Comp.?

In the Gideon Pebble box, was there more than one dovetail mounting piece? This question is for anyone.

Update: I wrote to Gideon explaining the issue. I'll report back what they say in case anyone else can be helped by this information.

Thanks!

 

[Wolkenflieger]

I have both and I can say the comp model has way better trigger slightly less recoil. Both are very hard to rack the slide but in maybe break in. The comp is not that much more money and better bang for your buck.

Interesting! What is the difference in triggers between the Carry Comp and non-comp?

 

[Balanar322]

Just picked up the comp. I felt like it was a slightly better trigger and upgraded sights seemed worth it for only $50 more. These two models are already so small even compared to the Shield X so the carry comp seemed like a no brainer.

Anyone have a holster they would recommend for bag carry?

 

[jmpeal]

I dried fire both of them at my LGS, and I could not tell any difference in the trigger, either take up or reset. Both felt like my Shield Plus.

But, still going to go with the comp'd version just for the better sights. No need to save $100 on the non-comp just to spend $75-$100 on sights and PITA to replace. Plus get it comp'd as an added bonus even though just a .380.

 

[chiroken007]

The dovetail piece by Gideon is loose but the strength to set the sight comes when you fasten the screws. it works like a vise compressing onto the dovetail. Use plenty of blue lock tight and it will be set pretty good. I tried removing my Gideon after it set and it took a lot of work to get it off!!

 

[Wolkenflieger]

The dovetail piece by Gideon is loose but the strength to set the sight comes when you fasten the screws. it works like a vise compressing onto the dovetail. Use plenty of blue lock tight and it will be set pretty good. I tried removing my Gideon after it set and it took a lot of work to get it off!!

Thanks Chiro....I don't think that was mentioned in the instructions. I'll see what Gideon says. Looks like I need some purple Loctite now for small fasteners.

 

[chiroken007]

Thanks Chiro....I don't think that was mentioned in the instructions. I'll see what Gideon says. Looks like I need some purple Loctite now for small fasteners.

I haven’t done purple. Maybe I need that because the blue worked almost too well.

 

[weaverftw]

I haven’t done purple. Maybe I need that because the blue worked almost too well.

I’ve never really found a good use for purple. It’s so mild, I just use a TINY bit of blue on smaller fasteners or things that don’t need much and have always been able to remove them when needed. Just don’t glob it on

 

[Wolkenflieger]

I haven’t done purple. Maybe I need that because the blue worked almost too well.

Yeah the purple is for fasteners smaller than .25", especially if there's a reason to remove them now and then. The smaller screws can be stripped more easily if the threadlocker is too robust.

A quick search got me this;

PURPLE LOCTITE® = Low Strength
Ideal for small screws or plastic assemblies.

Field-Applied: LOCTITE® 222
Pre-Applied: DRI 203 ECO™
Are you working with delicate or small fasteners? Purple formulas provide grip without risking damage during disassembly.