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Here are my thoughts on this magazine lock devices:
When the idea of the FIFY was floating around, the CA DOJ swiftly responded and made it clear that the FIFY device is NOT
LEGAL. Yet, they’ve stayed silent about devices like the AR Maglock and Hogue Freedom Fighter for, pretty much, 1/2 a decade. Although, there is no official “approval” by the CA DOJ for these products. The lack of response IS, to me, an indication that they don’t have a problem with these devices.
OR…it is just all a trap. And one day, a bunch of us will wake as felons, because of these devices on our rifles.
Nowhere on that page is there a greenlight from the state.They also have a section of their site that says "regulatory approvals" https://armaglock.com/regulatory-approval/ that seem to state this stuff was green lit by the state.
You clearly don't understand what I posted or what you posted as your mic drop.Um yea. Best of gunsmiths are always a student. Just because one has a gunsmith business can't shoot down other people's solution, especially when a manufacturer says something similar.
Mic drop.
Quoting to explain exactly what the above post is concerning.This "tensioner" can make the king pin not separate the upper and lower at desired gap to get the king pin and maglock to not work properly.
Source: me.
The 3/16" brass rod weighing about 2.5 ounces jumped about 6" up when the firing pin hit it.So, the firing pin moves the rod in the barrel.
Does this mean the firing pin is actually striking the rod?
Possibly, is it moving from the jolt of the hammer slamming?
Or even if the firing pin is moving the rod, is it with enough force to cook off a round?
Or strike the primer in the right place instead of other locations on the casing?
The 3/16" brass rod weighing about 2.5 ounces jumped about 6" up when the firing pin hit it.
You won't notice the full 6" travel in the video because it happens too fast to capture in standard 30 frame video compressed for youtube playout.
That's absolutely enough to set off a primer.
It's the full energy that the firing pin gets every time you fire a round.
The hammer is quite a bit taller than is needed to strike the firing pin so that's why it will still fire when the receivers are 3/8" separated at the rear.
You can see how the hammer strikes the firing pin at 2:17 in this video:
The firing pin will never strike anywhere but the primer as the boltface holds the firing pin in the middle of the bolt and the barrel holds the cartridge and the bolt in the middle of the barrel.
My demo video is using a brass rod to SHOW that the firing pin is getting hit by the hammer.
The fact that the rod jumps up 6" is proof of this.
The gun does not "jolt" from the hammer striking the firing pin.
The gun sits perfectly still on the counter while I pulled the trigger making the video.
I could do a much better video of the brass rod jumping if I had a helper to hold the camera but I did the simple demo video by myself.
Too noisy in a residence but I mentioned doing exactly that above as a valid test.Why do all that? Just chamber a primed casing and attempt to fire it. That’ll settle it completely if there is enough forcing hitting the firing pin to cause a round to fire.
If it sets off the primer, the weapon is not “disassembled”.
If it doesn’t, the weapon is “disassembled”.
I agree, otherwise I’d do it too lol.Too noisy in a residence but I mentioned doing exactly that above as a valid test.
Wear earmuffs…you’ll be fine.Too noisy in a residence but I mentioned doing exactly that above as a valid test.
My neighbors complain when I try to put earmuffs on them.Wear earmuffs…you’ll be fine.![]()
Instructions unclear,Take a home depot bucket, fill it with sand, make a cover that can only fit the barrel/muzzle, and try it.
Does the Hogue FF + JT pin not operate in the same manner?None of the "break the action open" rear pins that let you "break the action open" without physically removing the rear pin actually cause the upper and lower to separate enough that the hammer will not reach the firing pin.
@AR15barrels, apologies for resurrecting a dead thread, but this topic of disassembly of the action has been on my mind. I'm having trouble squaring your earlier recommendation of using a Hogue FF+JT takedown pin with your later statement:
Does the Hogue FF + JT pin not operate in the same manner?
Thanks for explaining this. For people like me who are new to this it’s like walking into a mine field.Here’s my reasoning.
Let’s say it takes 1/8th of an inch for the receiver to open in order for the bolt not lock to the rear. 1/8th of an inch is “disassembled” and ok drop the magazine.
If you can open it 1/16th of an inch and lock the bolt the rear, the weapon is not disassembled and not ok to drop the magazine. If your rifle is capable of dropping the magazine (with let’s say the ar mag lock) that’s been filed down to 1/16th of an inch (so you can drop the magazine with the bolt locked to the rear) that means your rifle is capable of dropping a magazine when the rifle is not disassembled per state definition (it can still operate at 1/16th of an inch).
The hammer also has a cut out that prevents it from hitting the firing pin unless the action is closed, I am unsure what the tolerances are for that, but I bet if the bolt is capable of being locked and unlocked to the rear when the receiver is “open”, I’m guessing it can fire too.
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