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Screw stuck, will not budge

Heating up the screw or bolt sometimes works, but it can also make it tighter because the fastener is expanding from the heat. Better to heat up the part with the female threads.
 
This seems like the right place to share that I just (like, minutes ago) skewered the pad of my pinky finger through and through with one of those “stripped screw extraction” drill bits trying to get shorn optic screws out of a slide. Needless to say, I’ll be taking that to someone better equipped to get those out.
 
This seems like the right place to share that I just (like, minutes ago) skewered the pad of my pinky finger through and through with one of those “stripped screw extraction” drill bits trying to get shorn optic screws out of a slide. Needless to say, I’ll be taking that to someone better equipped to get those out.
welcome aboard, except my finger is intact, ouch
 
I can understand if you don't want to reveal secrets that would cut into your bottom line. And I promise on scouts honor that I'm not going to open a shop to compete with you. But I'm always curious about techniques, and the only reason I can do what I do is from the lessons learned from experienced guys over the years.

What might you do to restore a screw head so you could get a screw out? Normally I work on things larger than guns, and I can manage the challenges. But last month I had a little 4-40 screw that was problematic. The only idea I had was cutting a slot with a Dremel tool. It's a crude solution, and #4 is about as small as I could go. For me, milling slots that small usually results in broken end mills and frustration.

What about heat? Heat gun or torch? Propane? Butane? Acetylene?

Thanks for any guidance. There might come a day when I'm sitting in the garage scraping my head and really need some new ideas.
Heat guns are not powerful enough.
Most butane torches are too small.
They require far too long to get a single spot hot and end up heating up the whole part.
You want to use a proper propane torce.
Most acetylene torches are too much.

Remove all plastic and springs before heating the part.
Wipe the part down with a slightly oily rag before heating.
Now heat for a few seconds at a time (keeping the flame moving around the part) and then remove the flame from the part and look for a wisp of smoke.
You won't get smoke while the flame is actually on the part you are heating.
Repeat heating a few seconds until you get a wisp of smoke when the torch is removed.
The oily rag is to leave a faint amount of oil on the part which will smoke off around 400 degrees.
This is a really reliable way to detect when you have reached 400 which is safe on all metals but defeats almost all grades of loctite.

I laser engrave a torx socket into the screw that I am trying to remove.

screw-removal.jpg


The laser will cut into the screw regardless of whatever broken pieces of drill bit or screw extractor may already be in there from the owner's previous attempts.
 
This seems like the right place to share that I just (like, minutes ago) skewered the pad of my pinky finger through and through with one of those “stripped screw extraction” drill bits trying to get shorn optic screws out of a slide. Needless to say, I’ll be taking that to someone better equipped to get those out.
I think that taking it to Randal to have his laser do the job would take less time than an ER visit and cost less than the copay


I’ll just see myself to the door.
 
I think that taking it to Randal to have his laser do the job would take less time than an ER visit and cost less than the copay


I’ll just see myself to the door.

You’re probably right - but I don’t usually hit the ER if the wound is too far from my heart to kill me.

I have a message to a local shop, but if they can’t help me I’ll hit up Randal for a shipping address! He clearly knows his stuff AND has the right equipment!
 
Heat guns are not powerful enough.
Most butane torches are too small.
They require far too long to get a single spot hot and end up heating up the whole part.
You want to use a proper propane torce.
Most acetylene torches are too much.

Remove all plastic and springs before heating the part.
Wipe the part down with a slightly oily rag before heating.
Now heat for a few seconds at a time (keeping the flame moving around the part) and then remove the flame from the part and look for a wisp of smoke.
You won't get smoke while the flame is actually on the part you are heating.
Repeat heating a few seconds until you get a wisp of smoke when the torch is removed.
The oily rag is to leave a faint amount of oil on the part which will smoke off around 400 degrees.
This is a really reliable way to detect when you have reached 400 which is safe on all metals but defeats almost all grades of loctite.

I laser engrave a torx socket into the screw that I am trying to remove.

screw-removal.jpg


The laser will cut into the screw regardless of whatever broken pieces of drill bit or screw extractor may already be in there from the owner's previous attempts.
Nuclear Fusion GIF by GIPHY News


Well I’m just coming to you when I break 💩.
 
The laser will cut into the screw regardless of whatever broken pieces of drill bit or screw extractor may already be in there from the owner's previous attempts.

A laser engraver capable of cutting new sockets in rounded out fasteners?
That's a solid candidate for the Caguns Coolest Gadget of the Month Award.
When heating things up to 400 ℉, do you expect to see damage to the finish?
 
It's been suggested to just leave it the hell alone. I'm tempted to just do that. The rail is functional.
Now this I can relate to. 25 years ago, I installed 3” screws on my front door locks so the striker plate was connected to the studs. In the process, I really buggered up the screw head. My next door neighbor saw me debating to remove it and he then asked “when I why would I even need to do that.” I left it alone. Was solid advice.

If it bothers you, pay a gunsmith to deal with it. They have much more experience and won’t screw up the screw hole and need to drill and tap a new hole like you will probably end up needing to do.
 
You’re probably right - but I don’t usually hit the ER if the wound is too far from my heart to kill me.

I have a message to a local shop, but if they can’t help me I’ll hit up Randal for a shipping address! He clearly knows his stuff AND has the right equipment!
See if @BlackBeard Frameworks would do it. They're local and you can just give him the slide at the range. He's there all the time.
 
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Heating the bolt/screw makes it swell. While that is good for releasing loctite, it is not what you need for loosening. Heat the area around the hole with a small butane torch, then cool the screw. Use a eyedropper with cold water in it for this type of fine work. Or even a syringe. Heck, if you could get a hold of a little liquid nitrogen, that would shrink a bunch. Local welding supplys sometimes have dewars on hand and can fill a thermos for a few bucks for you.
 
I think that taking it to Randal to have his laser do the job would take less time than an ER visit and cost less than the copay


I’ll just see myself to the door.
For finger or hand cuts in "one person" shops, leave a roll of electrical tape hanging close by, leave a little pulled out so you can use your teeth to get more tape. Ask me how I know. LOL My knife shop is a dangerous place to play.
 
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