Upgrading a Springfield 1911 A1

[Brandon Breeze]

I've only "upgraded" one 1911 to a Bull Barrel setup and I liked it. I was inspired by my Springfield Tactical Response Pistol Operator Tactical 1911 with the worlds longest name, lol.

It was a DGFM Argentinian Colt, Licensed 1911.

The Bull barrel definitely helped in the accuracy department at 25 yards and simplified things a little.

Also polished up trigger components and added a Carbon Fiber Trigger, Oversized mag catch/release etc.

If I had it now, I'd send it off and have it optic cut for sure, wish I did have it now that you made me think about it, thanks! Lol

 

[riceman]

Brandon Breeze​

With the bull barrel did you have to modify the slide for the reverse plug? Also, tinkering with the idea of getting a Jarvis barrel in black. But that will be after I get everything else put together to see how it looks. My gunsmith friend said they called what I am doing a Palomino style. This all may take a while.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Brandon Breeze​

With the bull barrel did you have to modify the slide for the reverse plug? Also, tinkering with the idea of getting a Jarvis barrel in black. But that will be after I get everything else put together to see how it looks. My gunsmith friend said they called what I am doing a Palomino style.

Only needed slight modification, I forget which brand the reverse plug was since it's been years, but it was nearly a direct fit

 

[AR15barrels]

Best upgrade in my opinion would be the EGW ignition kit and nighthawk or similar trigger. The egw kit makes a Huge trigger improvement. Went from a rough feeling 5.8# trigger to a crisp and clean 3# trigger. The nighthawk trigger needed some minor fitting but the trigger shoe is not sloppy in the frame anymore

And while ordering the EGW ignition kit, get an oversized bushing and have the bushing fitted to both the slide and the barrel to tighten up the barrel fit assuming you are not having a whole new barrel fitted.
I hard-fit 1911/2011 barrels which makes them mechanically more accurate by having the barrel in hard lockup when fully in battery.
Most factory guns are not as tight as they could be but a new barrel and bushing that's hard fitted can make them as accurate as any $2000+ 1911/2011.
I do this work all the time.

 

[AR15barrels]

Brandon Breeze​

With the bull barrel did you have to modify the slide for the reverse plug? Also, tinkering with the idea of getting a Jarvis barrel in black. But that will be after I get everything else put together to see how it looks. My gunsmith friend said they called what I am doing a Palomino style. This all may take a while.

Unless you have a dedicated bull barrel slide (no bushing cut) that's normally cut for a reverse plug (typical bushing slides are not), then the slide does need to be cut to accept a reverse plug.
I use the EGW piloted carbide reamer for this job when I do them.
It's relatively simple job in a milling machine.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Unless you have a dedicated bull barrel slide (no bushing cut) that's normally cut for a reverse plug (typical bushing slides are not), then the slide does need to be cut to accept a reverse plug.
I use the EGW piloted carbide reamer for this job when I do them.
It's relatively simple job in a milling machine.

Let me see if I can find the reverse plug I used, it did not need a reamer and was nearly a direct fit, like this one, pretty sure it was EGW as they were the go to at the time for 1911 parts

 

[AR15barrels]

Let me see if I can find the reverse plug I used, it did not need a reamer and was nearly a direct fit, like this one, pretty sure it was EGW as they were the go to at the time for 1911 parts

View attachment 153182

If yours is like that and it dropped right into your slide, then your slide was already cut for it.
Standard slides that originally took barrel bushings usually are not cut for that.

 

[slixx]

Best upgrade in my opinion would be the EGW ignition kit and nighthawk or similar trigger. The egw kit makes a Huge trigger improvement. Went from a rough feeling 5.8# trigger to a crisp and clean 3# trigger. The nighthawk trigger needed some minor fitting but the trigger shoe is not sloppy in the frame anymore

You're not wrong about that! A complete new, ignition kit will def change the way the pistol. I also changed out my trigger system on my loaded and IDK what took me so long to do it. It was a huge difference. I had bought 3 sets of complete ignition kit, Extreme Engineering, Harrison Design and EGW. For some reason when I tried the EGW I was not a fan of it. Not that it didn't work for me, it didn't feel as crisp as the other two. I really tried to like it but it just wasn't for me. A 3lb 1911 trigger is phenomenal, probably one of the best I've ever felt in any pistol. The pre & over travel is non-existence.

I have had a Springfield 1911 A1 9mm for a long time. Finally did some shooting with it and really enjoyed it. I kind of want to do some upgrading. I have a Chen magwell coming, going to go bull barrel looking at the Jarvis I know I need a reverse plug for this, also I have a Harrts full length guide rod that helps dampen the recoil. Any suggestions or constructive criticisms would be appreciated. I do not want to spend the money on a new 1911 because I am also in the process of having a new deer rifle built.

Personally, I'd skip the bull barrel. The barrel it comes with is already a match grade from SA; but if you want to spend the $$$ who am I to say otherwise, have at it! YOLO... LoL. Just me personally but I was never a fan of dual safeties. That was replaced when I did the trigger work. After the trigger, I added a nighthawk magwell and a 10-8 extended mag release. I'm debating whether I should swap to the Chen magwell but those things are always OOS when I look lol. It's one of those things where, when you're in the market searching for it and you want it, it's always OOS.

I'm not sure if all loaded models come the same from the factory but mine actually felt kinda gritty and was not smooth out of the box. When racking the slide I could feel resistance. I don't know why SA engraves some sort of numerical digits underneath the slide surface where it rides on the disconnector but those raised engraved surfaces would cause restrictions to the slide movement. I slightly stoned/polished that surface and then used lapping compound to the slide rails to get it to smooth out. Now this pistol is buttery smooth with a 3.5lb trigger. If only it had front strap checkering!!

 

[Brandon Breeze]

If yours is like that and it dropped right into your slide, then your slide was already cut for it.
Standard slides that originally took barrel bushings usually are not cut for that.

It was a completely unmodified DGFM for $350, the plug I used looked like this one, but may have been different. It was a near direct fit. Only had to lightly sand the plug to get it to fit into the slide

 

[riceman]

I have to have dual safeties, left-handed.

 

[AR15barrels]

It was a completely unmodified DGFM for $350, the plug I used looked like this one, but may have been different.
It was a near direct fit.
Only had to lightly sand the plug to get it to fit into the slide

Are you sure it was not a hat style?

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Are you sure it was not a hat style?

It very well could have been, we're talking 15 years ago, so it's not fresh in my brain how it was setup. It simply slid into the front end of the slide from the spring side and allowed the use of an FLGR. I remember it having a "foot" on the inside that followed the barrel, which helped make lockup tighter. That old DGFM had very loose tolerances, but shot like a dream once I put in the bull barrel and this plug.

 

[AR15barrels]

It very well could have been, we're talking 15 years ago, so it's not fresh in my brain how it was setup. It simply slid into the front end of the slide from the spring side and allowed the use of an FLGR. I remember it having a "foot" on the inside that followed the barrel, which helped make lockup tighter. That old DGFM had very loose tolerances, but shot like a dream once I put in the bull barrel and this plug.

Then you should NOT be saying it was a collar one like you said above because a collar one absolutely won't fit a slide that has not been opened up.

 

[Brandon Breeze]

Then you should NOT be saying it was a collar one like you said above because a collar one absolutely won't fit a slide that has not been opened up.

I'll say whatever I want

 

[peahi2]

I have had a Springfield 1911 A1 9mm for a long time. Finally did some shooting with it and really enjoyed it. I kind of want to do some upgrading. I have a Chen magwell coming, going to go bull barrel looking at the Jarvis I know I need a reverse plug for this, also I have a Harrts full length guide rod that helps dampen the recoil. Any suggestions or constructive criticisms would be appreciated. I do not want to spend the money on a new 1911 because I am also in the process of having a new deer rifle built.

Man I’d just save the money and get a better 1911 down the road. All the parts and gunsmith work adds up and if stuff isn’t fitted well, it’s easy to have a Frankenstein gun that doesn’t work as well as the stock gun. If you read up on the 1911 forums most people have moved away from the hocus pocus of full length guide rods. I have one last one on a stock Springfield custom I have. I hate to see you put a ton on money in a cheap 1911. I don’t mean that in a bad way but in a world of hand fitted 1911s and racy 2011s the basic springfield 1911s are way behind in terms of parts, fitting, and quality.

For example, my loaded target 9mm ejector fell off and locked up the gun. Sent to Springfield and they properly pinned it. From the factory it is glued in!! What TF! A good 1911 is not gonna be put together sloppily and cheaply. To get that gun up to speed and be a high quality and trustworthy is gonna take a lot of time and money.

Our problem in ca is the damn roster. At least that has been slowly changing.

Train, take classes, buy ammo, and save for a new gun. You’ll get better value and less headaches in the long run

 

[riceman]

In the pics you will see what I have done so far. Cerakoted the safeties and mag well since Chen Magwell was only available in stainless. My next step is to get a pair of black Lok grips.

 

[tomrkba]

I second the Nighthawk drop in trigger system. That is the first thing I would replace. I would then change the sights out if it makes sense to do so, but I think your gun has Bomar-style sights. If you find the existing sights to be deficient, then replace them with one of highest quality. Trigger...sights...done. This will change how well it shoots significantly.

I am left handed, but even if I were right handed, I would add a high quality ambidextrous thumb safety from Nighthawk. This allows full control of the gun when used with either hand.

Another excellent change is to install a small trigger shoe and thin grips. I match the grips to the magwell (see below). This helps me to get proper trigger finger placement regardless of conditions.

Then I would make sure the gun is reliable by shooting a case of ammo through it. If you find any defects in reliability, then it's time for the gunsmith to step in. At that point, you can start with some serious changes (try to keep it to one trip since shipping is like $75 one way). You'll have the 'smith improve reliability while doing the rest of the work. In this case, I had Nighthawk perform their reliability package and installed their Everlast recoil system (the springs are rated for 15,000 rounds).

Personally, I really like a French Border on my slide, along with serrations on the top of the slide. The French Border brings the "look" together. Top of slide serrations are nice to look at and are functional for shooting. Another nice option is a minimal magazine well funnel. I dislike those giant funnels on competition guns; I want it as small as possible.

Refinishing the gun can be expensive, but certainly changes the look. I'm currently admiring the classic look on Col. Cooper's and Louis Awerbuck's guns of a black slide over a stainless/chrome frame. I chose Smoked Nitrite for my Dan Wesson Valor and it looks great. My Enforcer is Black Nitrate. In both cases, I added the "Blackout option" which puts the black finish on the bushing, barrel, safety, hammer and trigger.

My Nighthawk Custom modified Dan Wesson Valor Government. I didn't elect to add a magwell or serrate the top of the slide.

 

[tomrkba]

Here's what I would do to your gun:

1) Refinish the slide with DLC black gloss.
2) Blackout the bushing, barrel, trigger, slide stop, mag release, safety and hammer.
3) I'd refinish the frame and magwell in chrome so they match.
4) Undercut the trigger guard for a higher grip
5) Blend and smooth the beavertail grip safety to the frame and ensure the thumb safety is smooth.
6) Swap the grips for black Alumagrips (click link) that are thin (options: checkered, full size, slimline, magwell). This will bring the slide and frame together.
7) French border on slide
8) Slide serrations on top of slide to reduce glare and look awesome.
9) Crown muzzle if the barrel extends past the bushing.
10) Checker front strap
11) Install the Nighthawk drop in trigger system.
12) Ring hammers are a Thing. I recommend them for bonus style points.

 

[tomrkba]

Here is what the gun will look like if you keep everything in the slide black and everything in the frame silver/chrome.

The Herretts Stocks D45 grips are excellent. They are extremely grippy but not rough for carry. Note the ring hammer.

 

[peahi2]

Since you are continuing and don’t want to spend money on a new 1911 and you’re getting a deer gun built, at least track all your expenses for your 1912 build on a spreadsheet. Include everything, especially the gunsmith cost and big items like refinishing, etc. and think about the sunk cost.

I’m a 1911 guy and have the 9mm loaded target in my stable but I refuse to put more money into an already expensive gun, for what it is.

Also get the gunsmith or Springfield itself to get that ejector sorted out